Textured Hair and the Cost of Care: Are Salons Being Inclusive?

A vital conversation is unfolding in the beauty industry right now: Should you charge more for naturally textured hair? On social media, some clients have reported feeling discriminated against, being charged more simply for showing up with their natural curls instead of straightened hair, which can be seen as a form of racial discrimination. This has sparked debates about inclusivity, education gaps, and how to fairly price hair services.

Unfortunately, some clients have experienced what is often referred to as a “natural hair tax,” a practice that many consider discriminatory. This discussion is about equity, transparency, and undoing long-standing biases within the beauty industry. Clients with textured hair shouldn’t have to feel surprised by unexpected price hikes at checkout, nor should they feel pressured to straighten their natural hair texture before an appointment. This highlights a broader problem of hair bias, and we’re here to discuss how to navigate this sensitive topic.

What is Hair Discrimination?

Hair discrimination, or natural hair discrimination, means treating people unfairly because of their hair texture, style, or length. In beauty, this shows up as charging more for naturally textured hair. For many Black clients, these pricing practices can lead to feelings of exclusion, discomfort, or even disrespect, particularly when their natural hair is treated as an exception rather than a norm. Tackling hair discrimination is essential for creating a fair, more inclusive beauty society.

For many, especially within the Black community, natural hair is a powerful symbol of identity, pride, and cultural heritage. Embracing natural hair has become a movement of self-love and rejecting outdated beauty standards. Yet, despite this progress, natural hair discrimination is still a reality.

From workplaces to schools, individuals with natural textures can face unfair bias and judgment. And in salons, this can translate into something just as harmful, like higher prices simply because of natural texture. So how can beauty professionals ensure they’re being fair, inclusive, and transparent?

The Importance of Textured Hair Education

One of the key issues here is a gap in education. Historically, cosmetology education in many states has excluded textured hair, reflecting broader systemic biases. As a result, not all beauty professionals have received sufficient training - if any at all - leading to uncertainty in pricing, longer service times, or even reluctance to take on certain clients. This isn’t just a knowledge gap; it’s a barrier to inclusivity.

Now, many cosmetology schools are taking a major step forward by including textured hair styling into the curriculum. This change directly addresses the long-standing gap in education, where many beauty professionals lacked training with textured hair. But what about the existing licensed professionals who weren’t required to study textured hair?

If you’re a licensed professional already, you could still benefit from expanding your skills through advanced courses or hands-on practice. Textured hair education benefits you as the stylist to become more versatile, and your clients, who walk away feeling respected and understood. A person cutting a person's hair

Pricing Based on Time and Expertise

Charging more for services based solely on hair type isn’t fair. Instead, be transparent about your pricing structure and focus on time, skill, and expertise. Here’s how:

1. Start With a Consultation: Make your consultation mandatory for first-time clients to assess hair type, density, and texture. This helps set a clear expectation for the appointment.
2. Schedule by the Hour: Book services based on the estimated time they will take. The key here is if your client shows up with naturally textured hair that requires a wash and blowout prior to a cut, you’re accounting for that extra time spent.
3. Be Transparent About Skills: If textured hair is outside of your expertise or a skill you’re still in the process of learning, communicate this clearly. Consider referring clients to a stylist who specializes in their hair type instead of risking a negative experience. Take it as a sign to lean into continued training and education on styling textured hair!
4. Avoid Surprise Charges: Nothing’s worse than completing the service and then surprising your client with an extra fee at checkout without any communication. Make sure your client understands the pricing structure before the appointment. This means clearly outlining the cost of extra time, products, or additional services, so clients know what to expect. For example, if you charge a certain amount for x ounces of product, thoroughly explain how textured hair may require more of that product and clearly explain the product usage and cost associated with their service prior to checkout.

Foster an Inclusive Salon Environment & Combat Hair Discrimination

Creating an inclusive salon is about respect, transparency, and continuous learning. If your team isn’t confident in working with textured hair, consider bringing in a guest educator or attending workshops together. The more knowledgeable and well-trained your team is, the better experience clients of all hair types will have.

By focusing on education, honest communication and a commitment to inclusivity, your salon can successfully serve a diverse clientele.